I love Scandinavian jewelry. And if it is big and bold, all the better!
Such is the work of Finnish jewelry designer Pentti Sarpaneva (1925-1978). Sarpaneva's work is generally larger and very textural. Much is cast in bronze. The pendants include bronze chains and giant wrapped jump rings which I adore. They are like an elegant portal into the decay of the pendant. Stunning! So influential to brutalist design.
Original Pentti Sarpaneva hangtag, Turun Hopea, 1960's-1970's
Melting ice, lava, decaying pine cones, tree bark, and reindeer moss were direct references for Sarpaneva's work. Many of the natural forms look as if they were cast directly from life with all of their complexities and gorgeous imperfections. Sarpaneva also used stones which were native to his homeland, most in a rough cut form. His work was ground breaking in Finland.
Pentti Sarpaneva for Turun Hopea, 1960's-1970's bronze, crushed pine cone form private collection
Pentti Sarpaneva, 1960's-1970's large wrapped jumpring detail, 1/2" Diameter
Pentti Sarpaneva, 1960's-1970's 2-part bronze pendant with agate private collection
Pentti was the older brother of the renowned glass and metal designer Timo Sarpaneva. He first studied graphic design at the Institute of Industrial Art, Finland, before taking up metalsmithing and jewelry design in his 30's. Contrary to jewelry design of the time, Pentti used direct objects from nature to create many of his pieces. The others were taken from his observations of the world around him in Finland. His childhood in the country with his blacksmith father may have also served as inspiration.
Sarpaneva designed pieces for Finnish jewelry makers Kalevala Koru and Turun Hopea which are timeless and still create a strong emotional statement. Interestingly, there was a period of 20th c. jewelry, 1960's-1970's, which informs today's desire to recreate the natural world.
Even though Pentti Sarpenva's work serves as inspiration for many of today's modernist jewelry designers, there is little reference material about him available. Even the seemingly omniscient wikipedia does not have a separate entry for him, instead giving him one line in his more famous brother Timo's listing.
Hopefully Pentti Sarpaneva's incredible designs will become better known as our quest towards embracing nature in our plastic-filled world continues...
*I currently have several Pentti Sarpaneva works for sale in my etsy shop eveMODERN.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/eveMODERN
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